The Case Against Frozen Latkes

I’ve never had a frozen latke I liked. Until I was in my 20s and living in New York, I didn’t even know these things existed. I’m not sure if that’s because they weren’t available in Kansas when I was a kid or if it’s because my mom simply insisted on making her own.

There’s nothing like a fresh, crisp, oniony potato latke made from scratch—I dare you to prove otherwise. But more important than that is the memory of making them. I remember watching my mom shred the potatoes in her Cuisinart (a sacrilege I continue in my own kitchen), plopping them by the handful into the salted water so that they wouldn’t turn pink while she grated more. I remember the smell of hot oil and frying onions and how we couldn’t wait until she finished making the second batch to devour the first.

If you’ve never made your own potato latkes, give it a shot this year. I promise you, anyone can do it. And, yes, it takes a little time. The oil gets a bit messy. Maybe it’s that extra trouble that makes it them so special. And the taste, of course.

Here’s the recipe I teach students in my private cooking classes:

Basic Potato Latkes

1 lb. Russet baking potatoes
Half of a small onion
1 egg, beaten
4 tsp. flour
kosher salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Canola oil
Sour cream or applesauce

Peel potatoes. Grate, placing the grated potatoes in a large bowl of salted water as you go. Drain well. Place potatoes in a clean kitchen towel. Twist and squeeze out as much water as possible.

Place the potatoes in a dry bowl. Finely chop the onion. (I use my food processor for this, too.) Stir onion, egg, flour, ¼ tsp. salt and pepper into potatoes.

In pan over medium-high heat, heat about ¼ inch oil until shimmering. With a serving spoon or measuring cup, scoop potato mixture up from bottom of bowl and place in oil. Pat each one down with a spatula. Fry, turning once, until golden. Transfer to metal rack over a paper towel and let stand 1 minute. Sprinkle with salt. Serve with sour cream or applesauce.

*Hints:

To keep latkes warm while you cook, place them on a baking sheet and keep in a 200 degree oven until you’re ready to serve them.

Want to make these ahead of time? Cook them, cool them and place them in the fridge for up to a day. When you’re ready to serve them, place in a single layer on a baking sheet and put them in a 400 degree oven until hot, about 10 minutes.

Make yours different! You can add grated cheese, chopped chives, grated zuchinni or any number of tasty ingredients to your latkes to make them your own. For a special appetizer, make mini latkes and top them with a dollop of sour cream and a spoonful of salmon caviar.